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Ko te huru kāhua o noa momo miro papanga me te whakarōpū e konei katoa!

wā:2019-07-29 Ngā Taunga:

Miro papanape ko te favored mā te kiritaki mō te mahinga tino pai o te mahi, o te whakaata tākaka hāneanea. E ai ki te tukanga tukanga, miro pūru kua wehe ki ngā kāwai matua e rua: papanga hina me nga papanga heua i werohia.

Te papanga tae maori (papanape rānei) Kei te papanga taera tae tuuturu, hanumi-momo matū whakauru, kopae parakore, papanga taapiri me te rahi me te papanga paraa ma, etc. Ko te momo matua he kakahu mania, pahū, twill, gabardine, serge, khaki, ko Sateen, he hu mama, pungarehu pungarehu, etc. 9 ngā kāwai;Ko nga momo matua o te papanga tae he taatai ​​waea, miro miro, ropu-whakawhero tino tōtika, tāhekeheke gingham, silika, ropu-whakawhero poplin me cambric, he seerucker heua, ropu-whakawhero roanga waenga tweed, workcletc, etc.

 

 

1. Nga papanga he
(1) papanga ngawari

He papanape mania te papanape, ko tana whenu me kōwhai ropu kiato, whenu me kōwhai ropu kiato katia, no reira ko te paanga me te wehenga kati mo te mea he 1:1, ko te whenu, ko kōwhai tightness o te papanape o te 50%. Ko te papanape i te āhuatanga o te hanganga ngāwari me te kanokano kaha.

E ai ki te rereketanga o te kaha o te benang, Ka taea te wehewehe i te papanga ngawari ki te papanga kakahu pai, pepa papanga ngawari me te papanga ngawari.Generally, ko te whenu me te kōwhai ropu kiato o te kakahu mania pai, he iti ake i te 20tex (neke atu i te 29 British branches), te kakahu o waenga mania 21 ~ 32tex(28 ~ 19 British branches), me matanui hoki te tātua tōkau i te 32tex(iti ihoNga manga o Ingarangiches).Me whiwhi te āhua o te papanape o te uhi ā-papa, ko kukune. Roto i a ratou, he marama, he angiangi te rinena mo te kakahu mo te uhi., maeneene me te ma, ngawari rongo, taunaki i roto i te luster maori miro whakaata tākaka, he iti ake te impurities i te kakahu. Matanui te kakahu mania, tona kounga o te rauemi he tino kiko noa, tona painga ko te tinana papanga matotoru, mau tonu me te mau tonu.Ko te kakano me te ahua o te papanga papanga ngawari kei waenga i te papanga ngawari me te papanga maamaa.

 

 

(2) pahū

He tatau iti te Poplin (tatau teitei), kiato te tōkau, te jacquard papanape iti rānei. Ko tana ahopou compactness 65% ~ 80% .He iti ake te ngoikore o te ahorangi ki raro ake i te papanga maamaa, me te ōwehenga o te ahopou hei ahopae compactness mo 5:3.Ko te āhuatanga kāhua o poplin papanape ko: he pai te āhua o te papanape, he pai te whakarite i te papanga me te raima rarawe, ka maroke te kehere i te ahiahi, he kore te kakahu, a,, e ūkuia ana te kakano me te kukune, he ngohengohe te ringa ka tino mangere, me te hiraka. Hei tāpiri atu, no te mea he nui rawa te kiato whenu o te poplin i te kōwhai kiato, he tika ake te whatu riirere i roto i te papanga, he maamaa te whatu tuuru, e mea ana, kei reira nga matūriki-momo i hangaia e te waahanga whakaarahanga o te warpara ki te papanga papanga. Ko te fullness o te taimana-āhua korakora ko tētahi o ngā here hira mō te poplin papanape hei āhua pai.

 

E ai ki tana hanganga huango me nga paanga, poplin papanape ka taea te wehe ki ropu poplin, raina haurua poplin (raranga me te patu) me te poplin raina 3 momo. E ai ki tōna hanganga puna, ka taea te wehe ki te poplin tōkau, poplin me jacquard poplin 3 momo;E ai ki te tukanga kopae, ka taea te wehe noa poplin, āhua wania poplin (whenu wania, kōwhai kore-wania) he wania poplin. E ai ki te tukatuka, ka taea te wehewehe ki te poplin i pupuhi, poplin tae me te tā poplin, etc.

 

(3) mull me voile

Ko te mair me te voile ko te kōmāmā pūru me te miro iti kiato. Ko te ropu kiato o maier ropu ko 10 ~ 15tex.Ko te whakakahore i te USES he miro me te miro, ko te ropu kotahi te J9tex ~ J15tex, a whenu ropu te 6.5 Tuhituhinga ×2 iti iho ranei.

 

2. Papanga e rua


Twill pūru e whakaahuatia ana e ngā raina noa iho Twill (mohiotia nga raina) ki te papanga papanga.Khaki twill "he ahiahi, depth, me te tika"."Ahakoa" Ko te tikanga he rite te huringa;The so-called "dehohonuraina maihao o nga waewae ki te kuhu me te Nga mea e kiia anao-called "tika" e pa ana ki te raina o te raina twill kia rite tonu te roa, kaua hoki e hārure bending tītohunga. Ko te hāngai me te twill tōtika ko te kāhua ahuwhānui o twill pūru.

He maha nga momo papanga twill, e taea te wehewehe ki te twill maui me te taarua matau.Ae ki te whakahaere ka wehea te taarua kotahi me te twill twill. 2 momo;Ka taea te wehe atu i te umanga ki te twill, serge, ko gabardine me te khaki, etc.

(1) twill (waenganui o twill)

Twill he 2/1 twill wee. Mai i tana mata, He maama tonu te raina twill i te mua, i te twill o te raina, ka iti ake te nawe. Ko te kanokano o te twill e tata ana, e tapawhā atu ana i te kakahu mania, ko te te. Ka taea te Twill te wehe ki ngā momo e toru: twill, haurua te huma me te karapoti oti.A rite ki te matotoru o te hu, ka taea te wehe ki te awhiawhi hakihaki me te maere pai. 2 momo.

(2) serge


Ko Serge a 2/2 twill wee, me nga nekehanga motuhake o te twill i nga taha e rua. He pai ake a Serge, tapawhā kanokano i te twill. He rite ki te whakamahi i ngā momo ropu rerekē, ka taea te wehe ropu serge, haurua raarangi me te haina i te raina 3 kinds.Maka ki te maui, haona i te haurua me te raina ki tonu, serge i te taha matau.

 

(3) gahardine

 
Gabardine hoki 2/2 twill wee, e ai ki ngā momo ropu rerekē, ka taea hoki te wehe kia toru nga momo gabardine, gabardine hawhe raina me te gabardine ki te raina tonu .Ko te kaawana gabardine mo te taha maui, haurua hawhe me te gabardine raina mo te wiri matau.

(4) khaki


E ai ki ngā momo ropu rerekē, ka taea hoki te khaki te wehe ki ngā momo e toru: khaki, raina-haurua khaki me te raina khaki. Tarai khaki adopts 3/1 twill organization, pera ana i mua i a ia, ko te raina twill he mātotoru, he nawe, e kore e kitea te raina hurihuri whakamuri, e kiia ana ko te khaki kotahi, ko tōna aronga twill kei te toe hōtiu, He tata ake te kakano me te kaha o te khaki me te raarangi khakiwhakahaere twilli te nuinga o te whakamahinga o 2/2 twill organization, Tuhinga o mua, kia khaki rua. Ko te raina khaki he 3/1 twill wee, te wahi e matotoru ana te taha matau i mua, nui atu i te 2/2 twill.

 

Serge, gabardine, kāri takirua takirua katoa 2/2 twill wee, ko te rereketanga te nuinga kei roto i te papanga rerekee me te kati o te papanga, me nga paatai ​​rerekee me te wehenga kati i te taha, He koretake te putunga a te heru me te kati me te taatai ​​me te kati whakawehe, no reira he tino wewete te papanga, he maamaa te papanga me te riu o te riirere mo te waahi whaanuku kakahu, he whanui te witi, he manawapa hoki;Ko te rahi o te harakeke me te weft compactness te paerewa o te gabardine he nui ake i te terete, a ko te papanga me te wehenga compactness ōwehenga o gabardine kei te tata atu 1 wa nui atu i te serge, no reira he kiko rawa te tinana papanga, mātotoru, kaua pakeke, kakahuria, kia kaua e pakaru, he iti te waahi o te papanga kakano, kua ara te raina twill, a e kitea ana te tihi me te raorao.Ko te paapene me te kati ka mau me te taapiri me te wehenga kati i te kāri takirua ko te nui rawa, no reira he matotoru te tinana papanga, koi me te maro, me te witi pai, ko te raanei twill he maama ake ki te gabardine.

Ka taea te mohio ko enei 3 nga momo o nga papanga me nga kakano kāri rua-waahanga ka pai, potae totoka, gabardine tuarua, he tuarua tuarua te serge.Tena ko etahi tohu kaata he nui te kaari taarua-rua, no te mea he uaua me te kore o te uaua, he pore rawa te arai o te whakamamae, i roto i te kara o te koti, cuffs and other seams he ngawari te kakahu me te roimata.Aa te wa ano, no te mea he toka te taera, i roto i te waikano tae, Ehara i te waatea te peera ki te uru ki roto o te whatu, katahi ka ngawari te kakahu ki te ngau.

 

3, papamōhinu te auau

Ko te miihini Satin he papanga miro tuunga teitei he mea hanga i te satin weave.Sateen ka taea te wehe ki te sateen tika (whakaritea e Warp sateen) me te rawhiti horapa (whakaritea e weft sateen).I roto i te mahinga whakatipu, ko te papanga sateen te nuinga o te USES e rima nga aho satin.

Ko te papanga me nga tarutaru haangai o nga papanga tuuturu te nuinga o nga mea rite.Straight satin papanga hiitoto he mea iti iho i te weke, He pai te pai o te mahi satin, ite matotoru.Ko te kakaho miro o te papanga sateen te teitei ake i te mea o te weft.A ko te mahi koretake o te warpana ka teitei ake ka rarapa ki raro mo nga papanga sateen., Tuhinga o mua, ka taea te whakaheke i te looping.Ko te noho huringa kia rite tonu ki te tau rere o te ira kiko hei whakaatu i te pai o te tae.Due ki te mahi satin, he iti ake te tarai wehenga ki te mahi wehenga ki te mahi huringa kotahi, he maeneene, he ngohengohe hoki te papanga satin, me te peera he maeneene me te maeneene me te rapa.Te tukatuka, he pai ake te kitea o enei ahuatanga.Therefore, ko te sateen papanape te āhuatanga o "marama, ngohengohe, māniania me tāwariwari".

 

4, Dimity ropu

Dimity yarns he varying whatu ki te kōwhai pauna me te taka ngā kanokano, e dimity ana a ia i te kanokano whānui me te kuiti i runga i te mata o te papanape. Ko te kanokano o koaka ropu papanape ko te whakarae me te tōtika, ko te renarena o te whenu me te kōwhai ropu, ka whakaritea he hūrokuroku, he mea tōtika te mata kakahu, ā, he tika te tapa o te nahanaha. Ko te takawiri o te yarns whenu i 10% teitei atu i te noa yarns. Ko te takawiri o te yarns kōwhai i 10% raro i tērā o nga noa pūru.

 

5, flannelette

Ka taea te Flannelette te wehe ki ngā kāwai e rua e ai ki tōna aratau tukanga: ko flannelette, ko ropu-whakawhero flannelette. Ropu-whakawhero flannelette ka taea te wehe ki te taha ki rō paparai, paparai rua, hakoko rua me koropuku wereweti, hūwareware wereweti, wereweti mātiti tae, kōwhai rua wereweti, abrasive wereweti me ētahi atu hua. Flannelette papanape te ōti o te kōwhai. Tikanga, te kiato o te whenu me te kōwhai ropu o te serge 1:1.5 ~ 1:2.Ko te āhua kiato o te whenu me te kōwhai yarns ko te 1 ∶ 2. Te kōwhai o runga 58.3 Tuhituhinga te whakamahi mō te mātotoru pūkei me raro 58.3 Tuhituhinga mo te angiangi pūkei. Wereweti papanape mai i te pānga tāwekoweko, i raro i te makona o te kaha kōwhai, he pai te takawiri iti. He rerekē te whenu me te kōwhai ropu takawiri, ka taea e koe te papanape te mātotoru me te ngohengohe, whakaapi noa iho. He nui ake te tightness o te flannelette i tērā o nga whenu. Te aua whenu/kōwhai tightness hau 1:1.7 mō te taha-rua serge, a 1:1.2 ki 1:1.7 mō ngā serge taha-kotahi.


Flannelette papanape he rerekētanga nui i roto i whenu me kōwhai kiato, me te takawiri iti me te kanokano ngohe. I muri i te konihi me te heua, ka keke te mata o te hina. He papanape te mata o te keke whakaata tākaka, he apa hau, ko te tākai o te kawe ia kua whakahekea, kua whakarei hoki te tohu wera.


(pūtake: pūkete mana o te aratohu panui)